It's made based on the last folder on the following page, but with a 4" blade.
http://www.calocustomknives.com.ar/docs/galleryfolders.htm
Profiled blade and drawn liners.
Cut and drilled liners.
Shaped and drilled backspacer.
Nickel silver add-on for the backspacer presented in place.
Ground blade and pivoting parts.
Stacked up.
In place.
Close up.
Filing an end of a nickel silver rod to make it flat.
Heating it to make it bendable.
Red hot.
Bending it in a circular shape to make a lanyard ring.
Last step. Note the jewerler style plyers.
Since it was too big for the intended purposes, I had to cut a piece off.
Borax to weld it close.
Welding it.
Closed ring. The shiny material es the added nickel silver for the welding process.
Of course, once the ring is finally welded, you realize that you forgot to put the other piece inside so you gotta saw it open again...
Perfect now.
Welding it close again.
Presented in place.
Drilled and heat annodized titanium bolsters.
Milling the inner side to accomodate the pivot's butt and head ends.
Tada!
Assembled bare folder. Opened.
Closed.
Bolster presented in place.
In hand.
That's it for now, thanks for looking!
More pics as I keep working on it.
Ruben
Next Percheron folder will be in D2!
[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=Ruben Calo]That repeated pic should of been this one, in hand, but closed
For those wondering about the bearing, it's got a 6mm inner diameter, 12mm external diameter, and a 4mm thickness. I don't know the number for it, as I threw the little box away.
Since I don't make exact knife models, the measures for the bearing change with the folder.
The first thing to consider when I'm buying these is that the inner diameter has to be 6mm, as that's the diameter of the pivoting pins I had custom made. Then comes the blade thickness, 4mm in this case.
And finally, the outter diameter has to allow me to have steel all around the bearing. If you check out picture #8, you'll see that a bearing with an outter diameter of, let's say, 20mm, wouldn't work here, as there's not enough metal for it.
I've started to use this system some time ago, and it smooths the action of the folder (the rotation is all bearing instead of blade/pivoting pin or a pivoting pin system) and I found out that it kind of stabilizes the blade, making it harder to develop lateral play. The bigger the outter bearing diameter, the best. Again, you're limited to the geometry of that part of the blade.
Now, more pics!
Everything finished but the blade and stag scales.
Refractory clay for the differential HT. (Yeah, its a tuna can
)
"Canned" blade with the refractory clay in place.
In the oven.
Out of the oven, still with the residue from the clay.
Soon to be handles.
Cut in half.
Other side.
That's it for now, thanks again for looking!
Ruben[/QUOTE]
: çà risque de donner quelque chose de très sympa.
)